Wednesday, June 30, 2010

The Bodyguard

Guguletu, South African

















He wore his sunglasses at all hours of the day and night. And never took off his hat. And had a fantastic leather trench coat that I wish I could pull off, but know better

He kept me safe, informed, thinking, and laughing.

All I really look for in a man.







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Monday, June 28, 2010

Lost In Transition

Cape Town International / Schiphol Airport, Holland



I've been in transit for 3 days now.
Slowly making my way from Africa to America, with visa problems, flight problems, money problems, schedule problems.

I've been reading The Duino Elegies, with my overpriced airport concessions, and pint sized beers.

Last night, I rented a drawer-bed by the hour, and converted my rand into euros for the purchase of a toothbrush.

This morning, I am watching a dutch show about oil painting and re-reading The Duino Elegies.

I am also drinking alot of coffee and updating my blog.




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The Best Bar in the Western Cape

Good Wood Naval Base, Western Cape


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Darky-Memories

Khayelitsha, South Africa


Sibahle had her going away party last night in the township. After a few drinks, I was ready to pour a beer over my head and jump on the bar - I was really in it. Dancing with these incredible dancers without a hint of self consciousness. Learning drunken Xhosa. It was mIdnight in a township that common sense would say, any white man with a camera should clear by 7pm. But it really wasnt on my mind at all, for better or worse.

But later - that changed. A man approached me in my joyful state and asked me what I was doing with this camera, this equipment, these bags. I told him I was doing a documentary. And, then, I saw what I thought to be a flash of anger in his eyes. Or maybe he was just drunk. But he raised his voice and asked me again.

"A documentary" I said (yelled) - half drunk. (Yes - that is the kind of filmmaker I am). This time, I knew he was angry - and I wasn't welcome. His friends circled me.

But at this point my friend (rather, my translator / bodyguard, who I pay to pretend like he is my friend) stepped in to do his job (translate / protect). The man retreated- the threat subsided, and in the end, he put his hand out for the traditional Xhosa handshake (which of course, I have mastered, along with all the pertinent Xhosa greeting phrases).

Later, I found out he thought that I was here to create "Darky-Memories" not a "Docu-mentary".

Yes, Darky Memories... Which were fightin words. Or maybe he was just looking for a fight.

But yes - darky memories. I laughed. But realized, that was his truth. And clearing things up probably didnt change anything. That much was clear as the night went on.

Suddenly, I found myself stuck in my head, and dissecting whats in everybody else's - standing in the corner by the uncooked meats. My feet hurt, and I was constipated from a week without vegetables, fiber, and grains.
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